Saturday, August 11, 2018

East Coast Cruise: Baltimore, Boston, Maine, Canada

Day 0:  The Flight

The Summer Fall Foliage 2018 trip began uneventfully with our first 5 person plane flight.  For fun, we did a red eye, leaving LA at 9:30 and landing around 5:30 am in Baltimore.

Upon arrival to our hotel, we found 12 police officers ready to storm the building, but since they were not concerned with our floor, we checked in and slept for a few hours.

Day 1ish



We trudged over from our hotel across the harbor to the Aquarium.  First,we made a quick stop for "breakfast" at Dunkin Donuts.  The Baltimore aquarium is really quite fantastic.  It's in 3 buildings on the pier, but the main tower is a continuous spiral up several levels, and a ramp back down, so you are always walking through an exhibit.  The aquarium had many natural scenes, such as regional or local waterways, instead of the traditional bright tropical fish look, that many have.  There were many ugly, 50 lb river fish, which was unique.  The best was, of course, the pig nose turtle, but the kids (and me) also enjoyed the long-necked turtle, the octopus, the giant fish, electric eel, and the dolphin show.  




For lunch, we cruised over to what would, sadly, be our only Chipotle visit of the trip.

After the aquarium, I raced to the hotel for a phone call with Gary Keller!!!!!!!

In the evening we walked along the waterfront, had a excellent dinner at whole foods, hit Vacarros for some canolis and dragged the poor kids home.  Canolis...not that good IMHO.


Day 1 v. 2.0

In the morning we walked along the water front and Beth, Becca, and Hannah did a Dragon Boat.  Princess Leah and I walked 12 feet and wound up drenched in sweat.  Becca, Hannah and I toured the submarine USS Torsk and USS Constellation antique warship.   The Constellation had 3 large decks, and gave us a good view of a ship.  The girls found the captain's bathroom unacceptable, so I didn't even show them the crew bathrooms.  After this we took a short Uber ride to the Cruise ship.



Cruise Ship Review:  Royal Caribbean's Grandeur of the Sea

A smaller boat by current standards, and one of the smaller ships in the RC fleet.  Its a 2,300 passenger boat, with about 400 kids on this voyage.  The boat has one two-floor dining room, one buffet, and no tv commercial-worthy amenities, except for the rock wall.  The boat and rooms are worn, but it operates extremely efficiently, and we had almost no wait for disembarkation (even with 1 tender) or food.  All of the food service had vegetarian options clearly marked.  They even had a kid's club for infants, but, Leah opted to remain with us instead.  The kids loved the kid's club and made friends with two girls who were much older than them, at the end of the trip.  We played Bingo twice, went swimming a few times, enjoyed running in the halls, which is definitely allowed, did hair for about 90 minutes per day and crushed the ipad batteries.  

First night - we met our dinner mates - two retired couples who admirably pretended to enjoy formal dinner with children.

Day 2:  Sea day of some kind.

Day 3 - Boston

So excited to see Boston today, and, excited for a full day.  The cruise has a 12 hour stop!!!  As we board the busses a light rain falls ominously.  When we arrived in downtown Boston, it was in the middle of the kind of rains a place gets in the bible if it had been naughty. 



We returned to the bus, where Kate Mercke replacement, Erica Mercke brought us a bucket of "coffee" and took Beth to run errands.  Thanks, Erica!

We realized the rain had stopped, and we were able to squeak out a nice day in Boston.  From the downtown area, we walked the Freedom trail, and Becca saw a cemetery, which she enjoyed more than you may expect.  She asked about 46 insightful questions about the goings on.  For the rest of the trip, we noted many cemeteries together.  After that, we hit Fanueil Hall, which sounds fancy, but is just a crappy mall food court.  You heard me.  Overrated!  We got ice cream or cookies or some garbage and continued our walk to the really exceptional Boston Commons Park.  Playground, duck pond, fake duck line, grassy areas, no bathrooms, $4 water.  You've seen a park, here are some pics.  Tight on time we rushed back to the bus and the boat. 




Day 4:  Portland, MAINE

Maine was a great place to visit.  Nothing uniquely outstanding, but the whole place is just really nice.  We took a one hour bus tour of the "downtown" and got dropped off at the harbor.  From there, a challenging uphill hike/stroller push to a tower of some kind that is really important in Portland and well anyways, here are some pictures. 


Whole Foods for lunch.  Man, Whole Foods Portland was awesome.  Really glad we went there.  It's one of those suburban oversized ones.  

Back to the harbor for a really incredible boat tour.  The harbor is full of incredible little islands.  Some inhabited, some haunted, many both.  The coastline is just so different from LA.  The waters are full of boats and lobster traps (and probably not that many lobsters).  In town, Portland makes a ton of beer, because the other 364 days of the year are snowy, apparently.  Nice place.  Home of Allagash beer, and 46 other types. 


Day 5:  Bar Harbor, or as annoying t-shirts say:  Bah Hah-bah.  Get it?  They talk funny here.

Tender port.  We had the "fortune?" of having super armed coast guard escrow our boat and tenders through the harbor.  Someone got some federal grant money and is not afraid to waste it.  Drain that swamp!  If you think a coast guard boat with 4 person crew and machine gun is unnecessary for a sleepy village in Maine, don't worry, they had 2 for us!

Bar Harbor is the home of Acadia National park.  A really good national park, with, get this - the highest mountain within 50 miles of the Eastern seaboard until you get to Brazil.  So, I have been on the highest mountain within 50 miles of the Eastern seaboard before you hit Brazil, and you, probably have not.  So, think about that for a few minutes and then we shall move on.  Just to be fair, the height is 1,529 feet, which is less than Freedom Tower (1776), but taller than Trump Tower (surprisingly tiny).

Bar Harbor does not have a Starbucks. 

It does have a sand bar that is walk able during low tide, but not during high tide.  There are many warning signs with photos of floating cars.  We walked across it, although with 3 children, you really need to watch the tides.  The bar leads to a nifty little island, that you'd best sprint around if you want to see your family again, before tides erase your escape route. 

We took a 2 hour bus ride around the park with two cool stops.  Definitely worth a return trip.  Here are some pics:



On the way back we had a much needed mid-day drink, and a less needed, but enjoyed, ice cream at the park.  Back on the boat, with full military escort.  I was surprised they did not have jets patrolling they 1/2 mile route of rural Maine.

Day 6:  Saint John, Newsomething Orother, Canada

Canada.  Nice people, no Chipotles, not sure what the point is.   

This part of Canada has the largest tidal variation of any spot on earth - that is the difference from high to low tide.  Our ship went up (or down, its not a big deal) 2 full floors in the 6 hours we were there.  We took the big pink bus tour around Saint John.  Its a hop on, hop off, but everyone goes to one spot- the Reversing Rapids, where something cool happens with the river and that tide thing I mentioned.  We got there when it was "even" which is really cool, because then it looks normal and you don't see anything.  On the way back we went to the local market and Beth won a free coffee because she bought a POUND of beans.  What in the holyfuck, Canada, are you using the IMPERIAL system now?  The guy could not even tell me how many Kilos of coffee we just bought.  I like buying things in kilos because I feel like Pablo Escobar in Narcos.  We also bought every last item that had a drop or more of maple syrup, and as of this writing two weeks later have not used any of it.



On the way back we had a Beaver Tail, which is essentially a personal pizza sized piece of dough, lightly fried and doused in sugar of some kind.  For some reason, we needed two. I ate most of one of them to protect my children from the 400 grams (see, Metric) of sugar each serving likely contained.


Back to the boat, dinner with people who wished they had my time dining, and partying all night long (Watched the whole season of Orange is the New Black.  Don't love the new characters at all.  Badison?  Seriously?)

Day 7 or So - Halifax

No tour for us here, just two exhausted children, Princess Leah, Beth and a stroller not designed for heavy walking.  We were going to hit the town.  Halifax has a killer ~2 mile (1.2kilometre) boardwalk with a great view, no safety rails and lots to do.  We first went through town.  The kids and I got a Timmy Horton's diet coke and sandwich.  It was exactly what you would expect fast food bagels and soda to be.  Beth, ever the adventurer, got Le Starbucks.  Nice job, Beth.


From there we walked up a steep hill to the park.  A small central park, but it had some really kick-ass roses and some ducks.  We fed the ducks with some kindly villagers we encountered.  There were three girls, we have three girls.  Girls played, daddy made some calls.  Side note:  T-Mobile -your international data and phone service is absolute dog crap.  Bring back Catherine Zeta-Jones or pink girl.


After that, we walked over to the fort, which Becca has repeatedly insisted was her favorite part of the entire trip.  They even had a authentic looking, but not authentic to the site, recreation of French and Belgian WWI trenches (yes, there are differences)  Becca described them to the re-enactor as "a lot of fun to play in."  So that was probably my bad.  After that, more phone calls, and we had local pizza.  From there we walk to the boardwalk and spend about 2 hours wandering back.  And that's basically it.  Two sea days that kind of run together, a relatively easy flight back and now we're home.


Overall, relatively relaxing trip, lots to see, but nothing specific.  Would definitely cruise back here, and would definitely come back for a week or two.       


Saturday, April 22, 2017

Cinque Terre


Our last stop certainly turned out to be the best stop.  We docked in Livorno - an industrial port that mainly services Florence and Pisa.  Beth and I had already been, so we opted for a Cinque Terre excursion.

The tour starts with a nearly 2 hour drive north to the town of Spezia - a small coastal town with a naval base.  From there - we ascended into the hills above the town, and came out on the far side of the bay at the small town of Portovenere.

Portovenere is a medieval town, with a layout, church and building dating back over 800 years.  It survives today as a tourist trap with a dock that launches northward into the Cinque Terre park.  We took a tour down Main Street, bought some pesto.  Found out that the pesto place we bought from was not as "authentic" as the other vendor claimed - typical east coast/west coast pesto drama.  We then had some free time to climb to an incredible church on a rocky outcropping.  After that we wandered back towards the main area.

             


The highlight here was sneaking off the beaten path to see the rest of town.  The town is a series of parallel walking streets that are connected by stairs every "block" or so.  The houses are narrow and high, and the streets windy.  You can't get lost, since it is effectively a grid with no exit, but you can really get lost.

              


We boarded the boat for a truly amazing, and bumpy, ride along the coastline of the Cinque Terre UNESCO park.  It cannot be described or captured by pictures.  Imagine a steep cliffs that dives straight into the ocean with no beach.  And then imagine sprinkling houses and villages on those cliff sides.  They are connected by literally hundreds and thousands of stairs, as well as a small road, and a train.  It is possible to hike the length in about 12 hours (and we will do this sometime!).

I usually don't love scenery photos in tour albums, but I had to here.





We finally docked about an hour north at Monterosso al Mare. The largest and furthest north of the 5 towns.   This town has 1,800 residents...all involved somehow in selling overpriced pasta or t-shirts.  There is a small beach, and unfortunately the train travels on an elevated track directly in the middle of the main square.

                                             


Here we had more than 2 hours to explore.   We saw more of the same narrow streets, and I climbed to a viewpoint at an old Church.  Back in town, we had an incredible pesto lunch (remember pesto wars) including gnocchi that was cloud like.  I didn't like it, but it was different.  The pesto is the specialty of the region though, and is amazing.

                                

After finishing up too soon, we headed back to take the train to a main road.  We headed back to the boat, where the girls barely made it past dinner, before finally getting to bed early.

I type this as we are descending into London for our flight back to LA.  It was much easier traveling with kids to Europe than I imagined.  They stayed energized and engaged for most of the time, and generally with ipad and ice cream they were able to be convinced to be excited other times as well.  They handled long bus rides, early wake ups and lots of walking.  They relished the chance to climb stairs and run around, when possible.

Its hard to tell to what extent they enjoyed seeing something different.  I can see Becca's natural curiosity in reading maps, wanting to "look over there" and in learning new things. I hope that this is the first of many such trips and that they grow their interest in traveling and learning further.

Cinque Terre

Friday, April 21, 2017

Milan, Italy

Stopped in the port city of Genoa and took a delightful 2:45 drive into Milan

Milan boasts a truly impressive castle (Sforza Castle) with a sick moat, if you're into that type of thing.
We took a tour of the castle, mainly I suspect because it had easily accessible bathrooms. 

                                                    

We then took a brief walking tour down the Main Street towards the original high end shopping mall - the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II.  It's basically two Prada stores and a Gucci store.  Who wears Gucci?

The mall is actually incredible.  Even more incredible, it was built while we were mired in Civil War...  The mosaic and details are endless and the glass ceiling is impossible to appreciate in photos.

                  


From there we walked a few steps to the main Cathedral.  It is hard to even see in just a few minutes.  There are 3,000 statues built into the exterior, and even though I am personally not a fan of Gothic style - this one is a must-see. 

                                              
                                     

We picked a café closest to the front for a view during lunch. They took 20 minutes to take our order...then 10 minutes later told us they were out of Gnocchi and some other pasta dish. So they brought pasta with tomato sauce.   In a fit of frustration I went inside, bought a small rice dish and ate it at our table.  The waitress said I was not allowed to eat it here...and I challenged her to bring a manager over to explain how the RAN OUT OF GNOCCHI AT A HUGE RESTAURANT IN ITALY!!!

Anywho, manager never came.  My two drops of coffee were comped and we wandered around.  The best pizza we had all trip came from a fast food restaurant and paired with two Gelatos made Milan quite a stop.

                                         


I type this waiting for our formal photos which Princess lost.  Thanks Princess.  #FML     (Note: They were later found. Princess is lucky; they wouldn't have wanted to mess with my pregnant wife!)

Thursday, April 20, 2017

Marseilles & Aix-En-Provence, France


We stopped in the port of Toulon, which is the gateway for Marseille, Provence and some other Ocean Facing French Villages.

Marseille was ok.  Our tour had a short stop there.  Not long enough to enjoy.  Though a highlight -we went to the Norte Dame de la Garde Cathedral.  It had 167 steps to the top, with truly incredible city and ocean views.   The girls sprinted up the stairs.  I was impressed.

                                                 



Next we travelled to Aix (pronounced Ex) En Provence. Cute little town.  Wandered around some walk only streets.  Had some pizza at a little café. Then figured we had to get some crepes while we were in France!

    


Review:  Majestic Princess 

We had a sea day the day before France.  Becca spent a little time in the kids' club.  Hannah is a few days too young to stay there alone - she's ALMOST 3, but they have the passport info on file, so no fooling them.

So as mentioned we're sailing a new boat for the first time.  The boat had 10 days of service when we boarded.  Its a larger boat - 3,600 people - but not as large as the big Royal Caribbean Boats (5,400 people-ish). Being on a new boat means it really sparkles - everything is in great condition.  The boat has a water show on the pool deck (bleh) and a really high quality outdoor movie screen.  There are two "skywalks" - glass platforms protruding over the edge of the boat.

Downside - It definitely feels a little crowded. The buffet is always a little chaotic.